Ok, so here it goes….
Tools and materials used:
• Rotary Tool (Home Depot - Black & Decker 3-Speed Rotary Tool in Kit Box)
• Hack Saw (Home Depot – Lenox 10 In. Hacksaw)
• Files (get a good selection)
• Screwdriver (electric)
• Sandpaper (heavy and fine grit)
• Super Glue (Home Depot - Gel type)
• Quick Plastik (Home Depot)
• Dupli-Color (Autozone – Vinyl & Fabric - Flat black)
BMW parts used – Purchased new
• BMW Part # 65-12-8-229-147 - Radio Blind ($4.50)
BMW parts used – Original (already in
car) modified
• BMW Part # 51-45-8-237-560 – Instrument Panel, Upper Part (US) (Known as the
“radio carrier”)
Electrical parts used
• Metra wiring harness (Metra 70-8590)
• Metra antenna adaptor (Metra 40-EU10)
• Butt connectors to connect Alpine’s wiring harness to the Metra harness.
• Cap connectors – to connect Sirius tuner power to headunit power and cover two
wires you don’t use.
***Note***
I bought this headunit at Best Buy for 10% off with free installation. Since I
was doing most of the installation myself I just had the tech at Best Buy
connect the Alpine wiring harness with the Metra one for me so I didn’t have to
screw too much with that side of it. The wiring is not too tricky as I watched
him do it, just match like colors. Please search for more info on this. There
are a couple of wires that are difficult to match up correctly (which wires to
use – power antenna) (see link below). Long story short, have the store
do the wiring for free so it is plug and play for you.
Steps
Trim Removal – Follow just the first 8 steps
here:
http://www.e46fanatics.com/howto/howtodetail.php?howto_id=25
Radio and “Radio carrier” Removal – Follow these
steps:
***Special Note***
I got all of these pictures from a German website that Alex (Alex-998, E46
Fanatics Forum) directed me to. The site itself is in German so I thought that I
would add some of my own notes to try and make it easier to understand. The site
is located here: http://www.ds77.de/auto/tuts0.html Thanks, Alex!!
Unscrew the two screws to the right and left of the radio and gently pull out
radio and unplug all wires. The only plug that is tricky to remove is the main
wiring harness. You slide up the plastic piece and it will pop right out. Set
radio aside.
Now it is time to remove the actual “Radio carrier” (the above pictured part
51-45-8-237-560). You will need to remove a total of four (4) screws. The two on
the top are easy as you see them right away, but the other 2 reside behind the
climate control unit, so you will need to pop out the climate control module
first. To do this, reach your hand behind the CC unit and push from the back.
You will need to push fairly hard here but don’t be too alarmed. I recommend
pushing on the left and right sides from the back and just work it until it pops
out. Then unplug the wires that are connected to that and set aside.
The red circles (below) show where the other two screws are you need to remove.
Then just wiggle the radio carrier out. It is real tough to remove it because of
the air vents up top. I just ended up pushing the up a bit and finally worked it
free.
Carrier Modification and radio frame
mounting:
You now need to modify the radio carrier itself so you can actually center the
frame that comes with your new radio within the carrier. Cut with hacksaw and
rotary tool where the red marking is.
Center the radio frame (that comes with new headunit) in the radio carrier and
fasten with two screws at the top. Make sure you use screws that are flat-topped
and are countersunk. I recommend using shorter screws that are shown in the
picture.
Dim, bezel cutting and fabricating:
Using the plastic frame trim that came with the new headunit I etched (on the
back of the blind radio plate – see part # above) the lines that I would need to
cut along for the opening. I used my rotary tool and hack saw for this job.
Along the back of the blind radio plate you will notice triangular shaped
reinforcements. You will need to cut out and keep in relatively good shape two
of these reinforcements as you will be using them later on for the inner-side
piece. The blue markings below indicate the triangular reinforcements.
I then used two of the triangles that I cut out and super glued them to the
inner edges that were cut out earlier, indicated by the read arrows. You don’t
have to worry too much about any gaps because they will be filled with the
QuikPlastik later. The QuikPlastic is excellent stuff!!! You just follow
instructions on package for mixing and fill any gaps or build up any parts of
that particular area that you may need to. After the super glue dries, make sure
to reinforce that area with the QuikPlastik very well. Make sure that you fill
ALL gaps and build up where you need to build up. Be sure to score the area
first. You can always sand off excess later on. You must let the plastic set for
3 hours before you can start sanding and filing it so the fit is perfect.
When sanding and filing, be very patient…Making sure that you are even all the
way around. Start sanding with the heavy grit for refining shape and work your
way up to the fine grit so you have a good surface to paint.
Painting:
After sanding, it is time to paint.
***Note***
You don’t want to sand the entire piece, just
the sides where the cuts are and the inner edges. The texture on the OEM piece
is perfect and you don’t want to mess that up.
I put three coats of the Dupli-color paint
mentioned above. The match is very good. Spray about 6 inches from the piece so
you maintain some texture. Don’t get too close and be patient. When you
first start spraying do not start directly on the bezel; start spraying to the
side of the piece and then move over to begin spraying. This gives you an
even coat and prevents runs and drips.
After the paint dries (1 hour, outside) you need to put everything back in
reverse order.
Helpful Links:
Radio Removal
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=390158&highlight=head+unit+install
Quick Steps
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=2583910&postcount=12