This is our 180g mixed reef tank.
FISH CORALS OTHER
We started setting it up December 2006, replacing our 75g - what a difference!
(Full tank shot of 75g) (Close-up Left side of 75g) (Close-up Right side of 75g)
For more discussion reading, here are a couple links to Reef Central.
And this was the beginning!
Lighting
Starts out with 2 hours of (2) 6' URI VHO 160w super actinics
Next is a single 250W XM 10K metal halide for an hour.
Next comes 2 250W XM 10K metal halides for 6 hours.
then the reverse, 1 hour on the single, then 30 minutes on the actinics.
For the evening, it's blue led strips for moonlight.
It is all mounted to a set of PFO parrallel reflectors. There is a silverstone 120mm fan on each end blowing air into the reflectors.
150W metal halide over the sump for a
frag rank that will run for 6 hours during the night, but will also have 2 75W
VHO's on it during the actinic time listed above.reflectors - PFO parralel
reflectors 24" each
the hole in the front will be the feeding door. i was originally going to put a
hinge on the door, but might go with magnets instead. i will trim the edge of
the cutout piece and use that for the door.
This is the feeding door, works out really good and holding up as planned!
Filtration
About 250lbs sand, Yes, it is silica sand from Lowe's quickcrete brand in the yellow and black bag! It was seeded with a couple pounds from the old tank, and a few fresh shrimp from the store.
eggcrate was put down to protect the bottom from the rock - just incase!
topped with about 130lbs of combined home made rock and reeferrocks awesome florida rock!
The rocks were built
Chemicals
This is the Aquatic Life Systems CR-250 calcium reactor. Pretty new setup, so hope it works out!
Before this I was using Oceans Blend 2-part. Now I use that to adjust as needed. Once it is all gone, I will switch to Randy's 2-part from Reef Central.
POWER CENTER
I chose this idea because it is the best to resist water getting into the outlets. 4 of the outlets are controlled by the timers, this gives me more than one outlet to use for the halides and a fan.
with the panel mounted like this, i was able to place the light timers where they could be easily shutoff as needed.
This is the switch panel that runs the main panel and
the second circuit. The first switch is the main cutout to the main panel,
the second set of switches is for the second circuit and keeps the power
heads and QT tank. THe next 2 groups of switches are for the main panel.
SUMP
This is basically how it turned out. I had to cut the triple baffles down to let the skimmer work properly. The rock pocket on the right has done me little good so far. I will probably end up putting a sock filter in there.
Plumbing (see below)
Left side - houses the CO2 bottle, the switch panel, main pump valve, and the refugium and return area of the sump. The return area is where the frag rack and 150W HQI lamp.
This is the right side, the power center, the calcium reactor, the light ballast rack, dart return pump, ASM G3 Skimmer (modified) / drain side of the sump, and the drip container.
PLUMBING
Orange lines - 2" Flex PVC
Blue lines - 1.5" flex PVC
Green lines - 1.25" PVC
Red lines - 1" PVC
Dart pump
Main change, I connected the 2 drains together - next time I would leave it like I have it drawn!
STAND
i painted the inside of the stand with this stuff. i read on here that it will hold water, but i hope never to test it!
just to be on the safe side, I bought a heavy duty shower curtain and put it down. it will only hold a couple inches of water, but hopefully the drylok will help after that - if needed of course!
FISH AND FRIENDS