Improved Homemade Wheel Chocks
(Second Generation, Revised, New and improved, etc.)
I have used the BAL wheel chocks with great satisfaction on travel trailers. I bent one very bad on the first outing with our new fifth wheel. Upon re-hitching at an angle, I pushed too hard with my truck, forcing one side of the fifth wheel to roll and bend a chock. BAL would not sell me the replacement parts. I then purchased and used the Lock & Chock by Ultra-Fab. These did not worked well, and needed adjusting frequently due the distance between the tires changing when the sites were not level. They bent and broken as well from installing them tight to prevent rocking. I have looked at the Roto-Chocks, but decided to just build my own and save $$$. The tires on my fifth wheel measure 4 3/4" between them. I decided upon the following design. The below dimensions worked well for my 5er. There is no movement with this chock. This design was revised from the original, to aid in removal. The chock will wedge between tires, but when loosening the bolt, the upper or lower block will be force loose, allowing the chocks to be rocked free.
| List of Materials
2 5/8" X 12" galvanized bolts 2 5/8" galvanized nut 4 5/8" galvanized washer 2 3/16" X 1 1/4" tension pin (I call them roll pins) 4 Scrap 4 X 4 X 8 blocks water proof glue wood sealer or paint |
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| I choose a 5/8" bolt for strength and rigidity. Also, the coarse thread allow for quick adjustment. I measured the approximate distance from block to block to be about 12" for the location I wanted the blocks to be. I had some old 4 X 4 blocks that where weathered. I decided to run them through my thickness planer to remove the dirty surface. It was not necessary, but I wanted a clean surface. My tires have 4 3/4" of clearance between them. I tried several lengths and angles until I came up with 7" long to the long points, with an angle of 20°. The blocks could be slightly longer. I ripped a 1/2" slice off the top of one block. Save this piece for later and mark it's orientation. |  |
| I bored a 3/4" hole thru the block with the
1/2 slice removed. With the bolt through the5/8" hole and the
hex head against the top, I traced the hex shape around the head. To
aid in the waste removal, a 7/8" hole was bored the thickness of the
nut. I used a drill press and Forstner bit to dill clean
holes. Also, Forstner bits when used with a drill press do not
require any material for the center spur to keep the bit centered. A
1/2" chisel was then used to remove the remaining wood of the hex
pocket.
To the right is the finished hex pocket to capture the bolt head. |
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| A 3/4" hole was bored thru the other block. This should
allow clearance for the bolt to slide and turn freely.
The 1/2" slice is glued to the top of the block to capture the nut into the pocket. DO NOT FORGET TO INSERT THE NUT! It may be helpful to thread the bolt thru the nut to ensure nut placement and bolt clearance before gluing. I used polyurethane glue to joint the wood. Glue and clamp according to the manufactures instructions. |
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| Insert bolt through washer, the top of bock with out nut, washer. Mark the bolt after the second washer. Drill a 3/16" hole thru the bolt below this mark. This will give the bolt room to turn without binding. Reassemble the bolt washers and block. Insert tension (roll) pin. Thread bolt into lower block with nut after glue has set. |  |
| The edges of the wheel chock assembles were
eased with a 1/4" round over router bit. A rasp or block plane and
sandpaper will work also. I also applied a coat of deck sealer to help
prevent water absorption and further cracking.
I made a wrench tool for installation and removal of the chocks. It is not necessary, but I can easily turn the tool between the tire of the 5er. A 15/16" ratchet wrench or ratchet with 15/16" would work well also. This wrench tool was fabricated from Delrin plastic scrap block with a band saw, drill press, router, chisel, and knife. The hex was created the same way the hex pocket was formed on the chocks. |
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