Miroku 1892 Header
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These procedures are for anyone who would like to disassemble the 9422 action for detail cleaning and/or to lighten the action and trigger pull by installing a lighter hammer spring. These procedures were done using a smooth stocked 9422 made in the early or mid-70s but to the best of my knowledge the latest model 9422's are virtually identical so these steps should work on any 9422.

NOTE: All directions indicating left or right are based on left or right as you would hold the rifle to shoot it. First two images below are to familiarize you with the various pieces and locations of several pins referenced in the text. Only the Hammer Stop Pin (a roll pin) needs a hammer and punch to move it; the other pins push out with almost no pressure. Happy shooting; the 9422 is a great rifle. I have proof read this several times but if you find any mistakes or something is not clear, please let me know so I can make corrections/additions. (I created a pdf file of this web page for downloading)

Make sure the rifle is unloaded before you begin!!


1. After removing the takedown screw and splitting your rifle into two pieces, remove the butt stock from the action by removing the 2 butt plate screws and butt plate. Unscrew butt stock retaining screw (1/2" hex socket, extention, & ratchet wrench - all 3/8" drive) from the rear of the butt stock. Look down the large hole to see the head of the screw. (see Fig 1)

2. Draw hammer back to safety notch position. On the right side of the carrier behind the carrier pivot pin, use a small screwdriver or dental pic to unhook the right leg of the carrier spring from the flat on the underside of the carrier (Fig 2 below). From the left side of the frame, use a 1/8" pin punch and hammer to tap out Hammer Stop Pin to create a small gap between the left inside surface of the frame and the end of the pin. The left leg of the carrier spring will probably popup thru the gap; if not use a small screwdrive to nudge it thru the gap.

From the left side of the frame, use 3/32" pin punch to gently push out pivot pin for the carrier, carrier spring, & cartridge stop; be careful that you don't lose the spring - it's small and easily lost. Once you remove the carrier/stop/spring assembly, put the pivot pin back thru the assembly so you don't have to remember how these parts fit together later on.
3. From either side of the frame, use a 1/8" pin punch to push out the finger lever pivot pin. Draw the finger lever down a bit away from the frame and pull it down out of its slot in the frame. It will separate from the finger lever arm and the washer. Remove the finger lever arm from the frame. There are 3 pieces: the finger lever, the finger lever arm, and the finger lever washer. Be careful not to lose the washer.

4. Make sure the hammer is still in the safety notch position and again from the left side of the frame, use the 1/8" pin punch to tap the Hammer Stop Pin until it's flush with or just below the inside surface of the right side of the frame.

5. Draw the hammer back far enough to release the sear from the safety notch and with the trigger held back slowly allow the hammer to move forward as far as it will go. The strut will pop out of its slot in the rear of the hammer and the strut/spring assembly can be removed from the frame.

6. Pull back on the trigger and use a punch to push out the hollow Hammer Pivot Pin and take the hammer out of the frame.

7. Use 1/16" pin punch to push out the Trigger Pivot Pin from either side of the frame and remove the trigger.

8. There is no reason I know of to remove the trigger spring; just clean it if it's dirty. The finger lever tension spring is retained by a screw that needs a small allen wrench to remove and the hex lands are not hard to round off with too much pressure (voice of experience) so unless there is a pressing reason to remove it, just clean it and leave it be.

9. To lighten the action and trigger pull, use an 18 lbs. Wolff spring for the Ruger Blackhawk (available here - http://gunsprings.com/Revolver/Ruger_RvNF.html#RSA - scroll down until you see Hammer Springs). Cut one end of the spring with diagonal cutters or cutter of your choice. Use a small file to smooth the cut end. I cut mine to 2 1/8" but suggest you leave it a bit longer and try it. See if the action & trigger pull are satisfactory and the spring is strong enough to fire cartridges reliably. Cut more later if you want it lighter. I found my 9422M required a little more length than my 9422 LR to reliably set off the primer compound. The WMR must have a little tougher rim than the LR. If you cut a little too much, use a small washer (illustrated below) to shim the spring.

10. Reinstall spring on the hammer strut. I've used 2 methods:

  1. (See image below) Install spring on the strut (if you're using a cut spring install the cut end of the spring toward hammer and install a thin washer on the strut to make turning the spring easier. Install a pin thru the coils of the spring and the hole in the strut near the rear end of the strut. By hand turn the spring so it "screws" onto the strut. You need to go far enough so some of the strut extends past the end of the spring.
  1. (See image below) Use a fender washer with a small hole in the center and use a hack saw to cut a slot in the washer. Clamp the washer in a bench vise and clamp a set of ViseGrips on the hammer end of the strut (be sure to grip it away from the tip so you don't mar the working surface that bears on the hammer). Install the spring on the strut (cut end towards the hammer end of the strut) and push this assembly into the washer until the strut hole is visible on the back side of the washer and put a pin thru the hole. Release pressure on the ViseGrips and then use a screwdriver to pry the assembly up thru the slot in the washer.

Back Together

11. Install the trigger in the frame

12. Install the hammer in the frame - holding the trigger back makes it easier to line up the hole and install the hammer pivot pin.

13. Install the hammer strut/spring assembly into the frame; see image above for correct orientation of the strut. Make sure the rear end of the strut is in the hole in the frame. Draw the hammer back until the hammer end of the strut is seated in its recess in the hammer. Tap the Hammer stop pin part way back into the frame, leaving a small gap with the left inside surface of the frame (you need to leave enough room to later install the left leg of the carrier spring). Holding just a little tension on the hammer spring, use ViseGrips to pull out the pin retaining the hammer spring. Make sure the hammer does not slip as you do this. Place the hammer in the safety position and leave it there for the rest of the installation.

14. Install the Finger Lever, washer, Finger Lever Arm & pivot pin back in the frame.

15. Install the carrier, carrier spring, & cartridge stop assembly back in the frame and install the pivot pin thru the assembly from the right side of the frame (See image below for proper spring orientation). Be sure the front end of the Cartridge Stop fits into the notch on the left front of the frame. Use a small screwdriver to install the right (hooked) leg of the carrier spring back under the rear end of the carrier. Use a small screwdriver to push the left arm of the carrier spring thru the gap between the left inside surface of the frame and the Hammer Stop Pin so the spring rests on the under side of the Stop Pin. Use the screwdriver to keep the spring in place and tap the Hammer Stop Pin the rest of the way thru the frame so it's flush with both outside surfaces of the frame.


16. Reinstall the buttstock and butt plate. Put the rifle together and you're ready for the range.


Also own a Win/Miroku 1892? - click here
created 7/19/05
revised 7/23/05