|The original motor for this machine is a squirrel-cage induction polyphase
type made by Century Electric Company from St. Louis, MO.
doesn't exist as an independent any longer, having been bought out by A.O. Smith some time ago.
|Model SC-203-N||Spec No. 13102|
|H.P. 1||Phase 3||RPM 1740/1450|
|Cycle 60/50||Volts 220/440||Amps 3.8/1.8 - 4.6/2.3|
|Time Rating: Continuous Open||Temp Rise 40°C|
|Service Factor 1.25||Serial No. AG1|
|The motor is heavy, but can be removed solo if you
least ~2.75" of blocks beneath it before removing the 4 3/8-16 screws
that secure it to the motor plate. The motor plate, however,
easier to remove and install if you use either 2 people or a floor
jack, as shown in the first photo here. The key is to get the
hinge pin out while keeping the motor plate level, thereby preventing
the pin binding.
The second photo shows the motor mount plate removed. This is a simple piece, made from solid cast iron roughly 1/2" thick - which means it's remarkably heavy.
The third photo shows rear end bell on the motor with the oil (or grease) fill plug notated. That fill plug, and the corresponding one on the front, gave me fits trying to figure out what should go in there. This is a ball bearing motor, which suggests it should be greased, but there's no drain plug for cleaning out the old grease. After a great deal of debate and discussion with various motor shops I finally decided to use the old timey grease I mentioned earlier, along with a couple tiny drops of Mobilgear 629 gear lube for good measure. I added very little grease. I suspect this motor has never been regreased, as I could find no evidence whatsoever that any grease had ever been pumped into the bearing housings - they were extremely clean inside.
|As you can see in the first photo on this page, the
a diagram indicating how to wire it for 220 or 440 volts. I
bit concerned by the diagram, because it suggests (to me, anyway) that
there was originally some sort of 9-pin circular connector that was
installed and subsequently cut out in favor of electrical tape (the
lazy electricians best friend and the bane of good electrical engineers
I was tremendously pleased, then, when I removed the electrical tape to find the wires all have crimped lugs with the wire number stamped into each lug. (You can't see these stampings in the photo).
The electrical tape will be replaced by self-fusing silicone tape, because I hate electrical tape. The wires coming in from the power supply were merely curled and sandwiched between the lugs for each phase. I will eliminate those and use crimped and soldered replacement lugs for 10 ga. wire.