6 Lanipo

Highlights:

This up-and-down hike follows the crest of Mau`umae Ridge to the Ko`olau summit. Along the route you see a rich variety of native plants and a hidden volcanic crater. From the lookout on Kainawa`aunui peak is a splendid view of much of the windward coast.

 

Trailhead Directions:

At Ward Ave. get on Lunalilo Fwy (H-1) Koko Head bound (east).
Take the Koko Head Ave. exit (26A) in Kaimuki.
At the top of the off-ramp, turn left on Koko Head Ave.
Cross Wai`alae Ave.
At the first stop sign turn left, still on Koko Head Ave.
At the next stop sign turn right on Sierra Dr.
Switchback up the ridge to Maunalani Heights.
Pass Maunalani Community Park on the right and Maunalani Nursing Center on the left. The park has restrooms and drinking water.
At the end of Sierra Dr. by the last bus stop bear right and up on Maunalani Circle.
The road swings left in a broad arc.
On the right look for a chain-link fence enclosing a Board of Water Supply tank.
Park on the street next to the fence (elevation 1,040 feet) (map point A).

Bus: Route 14 to the end of Sierra Dr. Walk 0.2 mile up Maunalani Circle to the trailhead.

 

Route Description:

Walk back down the road to a signed junction at the corner of the fence. Turn left on the Mau`umae Trail, which follows a narrow right-of-way between two chain-link fences. The passageway is directly across from the garage of 4970 Maunalani Circle.
At the end of the fences keep left through a small grove of ironwood trees.
Reach the crest of Mau`umae Ridge and bear right along it.
Descend moderately along the mostly open ridge. There is one rocky section. Along the trail are Formosa koa trees and the native dry-land shrubs `ulei, `a`ali`i, and `ilima.
Pass a utility pole on the left (map point B).
Begin a long climb interspersed with two dips. On the left is Palolo Valley and on the right, Wai`alae Nui Gulch.
After the second dip ascend steeply through native koa trees. At this point the ridge is quite massive and well forested.
After a pleasant level section through ironwood trees, climb steeply again on a badly eroded trail.
Stroll through a lovely stretch of koa and `iliahi trees.
Ascend a flat grassy knob with a 360-degree view (map point C). Look behind you for an unusual view of the back side of Diamond Head. Along the coast to the left is Maunalua Bay and Koko Head (Kuamo`o Kane) and Koko Crater (Kohelepelepe).
The vegetation gradually changes from dryland to rain forest. Native `ohi`a trees form a loose canopy, and uluhe ferns cover the ground.
Climb a second, shady knob topped by two Cook pines (map point D).
Traverse a long, relatively level section with many small ups and downs. The path leaves the ridgeline for short periods.
As the trail resumes serious climbing, pass a lookout on the left above a landslide. Across Palolo Valley is Ka`au Crater, nestled below the Ko`olau summit ridge. A waterfall cascades from the lip of the crater.
The ridge narrows, and the vegetation thins.
After a stiff climb reach a flat, open knob with a panoramic view (map point E).
Descend off the knob, passing a spindly Cook pine.
Ascend steeply on a rutted trail to a broad hump. From its top you can see the last stretch of the hike.
Descend the back side of the hump and go left around a slippery, exposed spot.
Begin the final climb to the summit along the open, windswept ridge. On the right is a magnificent `ohi`a tree, which seeems to be partly sheltered from the trade winds.
As the top nears, the trail steepens and becomes severely eroded.
Reach the Ko`olau summit at a peak called Kainawa`aunui (elevation 2,520 feet) (map point F). Look for dwarf kopiko trees in the area.

 

Notes:

Lanipo is the classic O`ahu ridge hike. It offers a challenging climb, breathtaking windward views, and a surprising variety of native plants. As a bonus, you get to see a little-known volcanic crater and a lovely waterfall.

Start early to avoid the hot sun in the open lower section of the Mau`umae (wilted grass) Trail. Watch your footing constantly because the ungraded route is often rough, sometimes muddy, and occasionally narrow. The middle section of the trail may be overgrown with grass and scratchy uluhe ferns. The upper section is wet and cool, with vegetation stunted by the wind.

Some hikers are put off by the initial rocky descent, which, of course, must be climbed on the way back in the hot afternoon. Don't be discouraged! The native plants and the spectacular views farther in are well worth the extra effort.

Once on the trail look for the native dryland shrubs `a`ali`i and `ilima. `A`ali`i has shiny, narrow leaves and red seed capsules. Early Hawaiians used the leaves and capsules in making lei (garlands). When crushed or boiled, the capsules produced a red dye for decorating kapa (bark cloth). `Ilima has oblong, serrated leaves, about 1 inch long. The yellow orange flowers strung together make a regal lei, both in ancient and modern Hawai`i.

In the dry lower section of the trail, koa is the most common native tree. It has sickle-shaped foliage and pale yellow flower clusters. Early Hawaiians made surfboards and outrigger canoe hulls out of the beautiful red brown wood. Today it is made into fine furniture.

Less common along the trail is `iliahi, the native sandalwood tree. Its small leaves are dull green and appear wilted. `Iliahi is partially parasitic, with outgrowths on its roots that steal nutrients from nearby plants. Early Hawaiians ground the fragrant heartwood into a powder to perfume their kapa. Beginning in the late 1700s, sandalwood was indiscriminately cut down and exported to China to make incense and furniture. The trade ended around 1840 when the forests were depleted of `iliahi.

In the wetter middle section of the trail, native `ohi`a gradually replaces koa as the dominant tree. `Ohi`a has oval leaves and clusters of delicate red flowers. Early Hawaiians used the flowers in lei and the wood in outrigger canoes. The hard, durable wood was also carved into god images for heiau (religious sites).

From the lookout above the landslide you can see Ka`au (forty), a circular crater at the base of the Ko`olau summit ridge. The crater was probably formed by steam explosions when rising molten rock encountered groundwater. Both Ka`au and Diamond Head Craters are remnants of the last volcanic activity on O`ahu, known as the Honolulu Series.

According to Hawaiian legend, the demigod and trickster Mãui wanted to join all the islands together. From Ka`ena (the heat) Point he threw a great hook toward Kaua`i, hoping to snare the island. Initially the hook held fast, and Mãui gave a mighty tug on the line. A huge boulder, known as Pohaku o Kaua`i, dropped at his feet. The hook sailed over his head and fell in Pãlolo Valley, forming Ka`au Crater. The crater may have been named after Ka`auhelemoa, a supernatural chicken that lived in the valley.

Near the top look for kopiko, a native member of the coffee family. It has leathery, oblong leaves with a light green midrib. Turn the leaf over to see a row of tiny holes (piko [navel]) on either side of the midrib. The kopiko produces clusters of little white flowers and fleshy, orange fruits.

From the summit lookout on Kainawa`aunui are some impressive windward views. In front is Olomana (forked hill) with its three peaks. To the right is the broad sweep of Waimãnalo (potable water) Bay. Farther along the coast are Kailua (two seas) and Kãne`ohe (cutting husband) Bays, separated by Mokapu (taboo district) Peninsula. You can also see the sheer Ko`olau (windward) summit ridge from flat-topped Pu`u o Kona (hill of leeward) on the right to twin-peaked Konahuanui (large fat testicles) on the left.

To reach the actual peak of Lanipo (dense), turn right along the Ko`olau summit ridge. For a more challenging outing, continue past Lanipo and go down the Wiliwilinui Trail. The summit section is for experienced hikers only as it is steep, narrow, overgrown, and sometimes socked in.