Unadilla Forks Remembered
Revised
02/21/2011
(Best Viewed at 1600 X 900)
Links to various
sections:
The Churches of Unadilla Forks
The Unadilla Forks Fire Company
The Unadilla Forks Post Office
Patents Held by Early Settlers
Directory of Unadilla Forks for the Period 1903-1925
Excerpts from highway commissioner report of 1893
Lloydsville Cheese Factory 1895
Genealogy In and Around Unadilla Forks
Leonardsville
Class Photo ca.1915
Aerial Photo of Unadilla Forks Circa 1960
This
map shows the location of Unadilla Forks relative to Utica, NY. Unadilla Forks is shown as a red balloon with
the letter "A" imbedded within.
The location is about 20 miles south of Utica and about 1 mile east of
route 8.
My name is Jerry Jones and I was born in Unadilla
Forks (UF) in 1942, attended West Winfield Central School and presently (2011)
live in Apalachin, NY with my wife Terry.
Although my home is in Apalachin, my heart will always be in the
Forks. A few years ago I noticed a
painting that had been in my room for many years. The painting is shown to the left and shows a
large house with a porch and another large house in the background. I soon realized that the house in the
painting was my grandfather’s house (#21) that burned in the 1918 fire that
destroyed four homes.
Many of the surrounding villages such as Brookfield,
Leonardsville, Bridgewater, and West Winfield either have active historical
societies or their histories are documented in other places such as books. The best internet site that addresses the
areas history is the Upper Unadilla Valley Association web site but that site also addresses other villages
and I wanted a site dedicated to Unadilla Forks. Thus, this site was established. The town historian is Melinda Wadsworth and
she can be reached at 315-855-7857.
Unadilla Forks is located in Otsego County in the
township of Plainfield, New York. The
village is situated on the Unadilla River about 20 miles south of Utica. Much of the township’s history and some of
the village’s history has already been documented and can be found at the
following internet links:
The
History of Otsego County 1740-1878 by D. Hamilton Hurd transcribed by Holice and Debbie
The History of Otsego County History
Mini-Bios and Early Settlers Index
transcribed by Sandy Goodspeed
There are 2 very good reference sources for the
periods 1868 and 1903. One is the F.W. Beers 1868 Atlas
of Otsego County. It contains a map of Plainfield Township
plus a detailed map of Unadilla Forks and a business directory for that
time. It may take some time for these
maps to load but they can be expanded to show detail. You can also view the 1868 map of Unadilla
Forks by clicking this link.
The other excellent reference is a 1903 atlas by Otto
Barthez, called “The Company Corps of Expert Engineers and Draughtsmen; The New
Century Atlas of Otsego County.” It
contains a map of the Town of Plainfield and also the names of several farm
families residing there in 1903. The 1903
map can be viewed by clicking 1903
Plainfield Map. Many farms were given names and a detailed
write-up of several farm families can be found by clicking 1903
Plainfield Farm Families. One can then match the farm name to the name
on the 1903 map and thus determine the location of the farm. In the same atlas there is a 1903 map of
Unadilla Forks drawn to scale plus a business directory of that time. The map can be viewed by clicking Unadilla
Forks 1903 Map . For a more recent reference please see W.
Barrett, L. McNulty, et al., “The Upper Unadilla Valley Association Saving Our
Valley,” Worden Press, Brookfield, NY, 1999.
Recently I had the good fortune to purchase an 1856 original map of UF
and Plainfield on e-bay. Both maps not
only show the town and village roads but have the names of families and businesses. By clicking on these links you can view and
expand the maps: 1856
Map of UF and 1856
Map of Plainfield
.
I was very fortunate to have met Alice Clarke
Whitcombe who was the daughter of Mildred Whitcombe. Mildred lived her early years on the Clarke
farm which was located on Pritchard Road in Plainfield Center. The farm is now in ruins and was last owned
by Bob Pritchard. In 1903 her
grandfather, Henry Page Clark, moved to Unadilla Forks so she could go to
school there. H. P. Clarke owned the Ted
and Lyda Clarke residence (#4) adjacent to the Adams family (#3). Apparently Unadilla Forks and its’ people
made a lasting impression on Mildred and she was in the process of putting her
memories together when she passed away on Christmas Eve 1979. Alice, her daughter, furnished me with much
information and Mildred’s other notes reside with the present Unadilla Forks
historian, Melinda Wadsworth. I have
transcribed these notes into a Word document that can be viewed by clicking on
this link. Mildred (born
1897) was a contemporary of Anna Chapman and Chauncey Adams. Her notes give a good insight into the people
of Unadilla Forks in the early 1900’s.
For those of you interested in reading old newspapers,
including the Brookfield Courier, this site contains many papers from the area: Old Newspapers .
Other assorted reference material can be found within
these links:
Gazetteer
and Business Directory of Otsego County by H. Child 1872-3.
Boyd's
NYS Directory of UF Merchants 1872-73
A
Gazetteer of NYS by J. Disturnell - 1843
The
History of New York State, Book IX, Chapter III
OTSEGO COUNTY -
Geographical and Historical 1902
Gazetteer
and Business Directory of Madison County by H. Child 1868
The town of Plainfield was established on March 25,
1799 but the first settlements were in 1793.
Among the early pioneers were John Kilbourne, Elias Wright, Ruggles
Spooner, Samuel Williams, and Benjamin and Abel Clark. Parley Philips was an early settler who came
from Adams, Mass. In 1813 he settled one mile east of Lloydsville on a tract of
land that I know as the Lynn (Zip) Davis farm.
The Philips homestead location is shown on the 1856 map of Plainfield
mentioned previously. Parley had a large
family consisting of 12 children. One
son, Jeremiah, was a missionary to Hindostan.
Parley caught smallpox during a trip of see his son off for India and
both he and his wife died in 1835.
Parley and Henry Wilcox built the “Maple Shade” home (#44) in UF in
1828. This home was used as a summer
home by Reba and Otto Huddle and was sold to Howard Goff in 1968. Reba is the daughter of Henry D. and Florence
Wilcox Bassett. Florence Wilcox is the
daughter of Henry Wilcox. The home is presently owned by Louise
Isbell. Parley was a religious man and
one of the stained glass windows in the present UF Baptist church has his name
inscribed in it. Parley also is thought
to have built other Federal style homes in the area.
I can think of two families still living on original
homesteads that can trace their roots to the early 19th century
settlers, they would be the Wilcox and Hackley families. In the write-up of 1903
Plainfield Farm Families, one can
read about the Wilcox Homestead owned by George F. Wilcox at that time. I have included a few lines from that
section: The “Old Homestead” was owned by the grandfather of George F.
Wilcox. It seemingly was in the family
name from its earliest settlement.
George F. Wilcox is the independent owner of “Hillside Farm” which he
purchased in 1900. Carlton Wilcox
passed away in 2006 but his wife Sherry still lives on the Homestead today. It is located on the back road to West
Winfield just before the turn that takes you to Crumb Hill and Plainfield
Center. Carlton’s genealogy was
obtained from Sharon Pachett and is a follows:
Oliver Cromwell Wilcox and his wife came from Stonnington, CT by
oxcart to most likely Brookfield, Madison County before 1800. He owned land
there. Oliver’s sons were Ephraim,
Edward, John, William and Oliver Jr. The deed on Carlton's house was filed in
1803 in the names of John and Ephraim Wilcox. Edward had 7
children, including another Oliver Cromwell Wilcox. Oliver Cromwell Wilcox b 1831, son of Edward
of UF, had George Francis Wilcox in 1861. George had Horace Leroy
1883, father of Carlton Wilcox.
Quoting from the “History of Otsego County by D. H. Hurd,
1878, p. 294: “In the northwest part
of the town, where are located the best farming lands, is a thoroughfare known
as “Hackley Street,” which derived its name from Dr. Hackley, a prominent
pioneer, who located on the lands now owned and occupied by a son, Salinus H.
Hackley. “ In the book “Saving Our
Valley,” the Hackley Farm is said to have been established in 1811. Brian Hackley and wife are the eight
generation to farm this land. While
riding on the school bus to West Winfield Central School in the 50’s I remember
sap buckets hanging from the maple trees on that farm and Carl Hackley, Brian’s
father, produced maple syrup. I also
have memories of Hackley Street in the winter, such as not being able to see
above the snow banks while riding in a school bus. The wind often blows across those flats
creating white-out conditions in the winter making travel quite an
adventure.
Quoting again from pages 294-295 of the same 1878
book, “The village of Unadilla Forks is located on the Unadilla river, in the
western part, north of the center, and contains two churches, Baptist and Free
Baptist, besides the following business interests: general stores, H. H. Babcock, Rogers &
Dye, Humphrey & Spicer; furniture, etc. T. Clark; grist-mill, S. B.
Griffin; saw-mill, Amos Fisk; carding-factory, etc., S. Enos; hardware, etc.,
R. Daggett; physician, J. F. Dively; wagon-shops, A. D. Wilcox, J. F. Tarbell;
blacksmith, H. D. Bassett; shoe-shop, S. Clark, P. Gaughran; harness-shop, F.
H. Wilcox; cooper, Cyrus Brown; milliners, Mrs. J Strickland, Mrs. H. M.
Perkins; hotel, Charles Allen.”
In the 1969 time frame the people of West Winfield
were looking for a name for their new school.
After much debate, the name Mount Markham was chosen. The local historians of that time were busily
trying to find out why the mountain in Unadilla Forks was called Mt.
Markham. Many articles appeared in the
local West Winfield Star newspaper but no one could definitively answer how the
mountain got the name Markham. Mildred
Clarke Whitcomb lived in Unadilla Forks in the early 1900s and was a
contemporary of Anna Chapman. She wrote
an article in the Star on 09/04/1969 of a story that was told to her as a
child, by elders, of a team of engineers that was sent in the early spring to
measure the height of the mountain. They
became trapped near the “look-off” and had to be rescued after spending some
time before they were noticed. It is
about this time that Mildred thinks the mountain was named and her guess is
that one of the engineers connected with the project was named Markham.
Recently Nancy Melville, Unadilla Forks Baptist Church
historian, and I were discussing the Free Baptist Church history and she
remembered seeing the name Markham in the original record book. The book states that in June of 1806 three
Markhams joined the Church; they were John, Jepthy and Seth. Where these people lived is a mystery but there
apparently was a Markham family in the area in 1806 about the time the village
was settled. The source of the name
Mount Markham appears to be forever lost in antiquity.
I have not been
able to determine when the saw mill was built but it is probably safe to say
that it was constructed around 1800.
According to Hammond’s History of Madison County, the first saw mill at
the Forks, on the Plainfield side, was built by Capt. Caleb Brown, and stood on
the spot where, it is said, an Indian once murdered a white man. The mill was most likely the focal point for
lumber used to build the first homes. In
an 1829 atlas by David Burr, the map of Otsego County shows two structures in
the area now occupied by Unadilla Forks.
One is a saw mill and the other a flower mill. Click here to view the on-line map. No churches are shown in this map.
The picture to the left (probably early 1900's) is a
view looking East upriver from below the dam.
The cabinet factory is on the left and the saw mill on the right. The side of the mill towards the dam is
straight and in-line with the stone foundation.
This picture shows the mill with an addition built on
the north side. Ray Backus said that the
north side addition was added in 1913-14 to house open glass jar batteries that
were charged by mill power and provided electricity to the town when the mill
wheel was not turning. The mill wheel
was enclosed in a flume that was horizontal.
Water pressure was always present due to the dam and when the flume was
open the water would run past and turn the wheel. A belt was connected from the water wheel to
the generator.
Also evident in both pictures is an old wooden plank
bridge. Ward Ellsworth remembers Carl
Ellsworth stepping on a loose board in the bridge and falling into the spring
flood above the dam and being saved by his mother and older brother Dean and
Howard Whitacre who ran down the bridge abutment. The picture also shows a building with an
open door behind the bridge supports, this was a blacksmith shop on the
Wilcox-Bassett property. John Spring was
the last blacksmith to occupy the shop.
The building to the right of the blacksmith shop was a storage shed for
mill lumber. In the 40’s and 50’s when I
was growing up the mill was owned by Charles Backus. Much of what I have learned about the mill
has come from conversations with Raymond Backus, Charles’ son. Ray was born in Unadilla Forks in 1917 and
was very instrumental in providing information about Unadilla Forks. I'm sorry to report that Ray passed away
unexpectedly at his home in East Bethel, Vt. on Sept. 2, 2009.
West of the Backus residence (#23, now occupied by
Dale Gates) was the home (#24) of Anna Chapman who was very civic minded and
whose photo/written collections I have used to develop much of this site. Anna married Ira Roberts in 1929 and after
Ira died she married John Walsh (11/26/1964).
The photo to the left shows Anna and John by their front door. Anna was born 1/26/1896 the daughter of Byron
and Hattie Dye Chapman who were married in 1895. Anna passed away in 1992. Anna and Ira more or less took a young man
under their wing, his name was Stearns Bately.
Stearns lived with Anna and Ira and composed a very nice description of
the mill in a poem, The Old
Mill. This was published in the West Winfield Star
sometime in the 1950’s.
When the old wooden bridge was replace about 1930-31,
a steel plate was inserted in the side of the dam to stop the flow of water to
the mill if needed. The plate is still
there today. Charles Backus would shut
down the flume wheel when he went to bed at night but he often needed to run
the generator until noon on Mondays because that is when people did their
laundry. Extra generation was sometimes
needed on Tuesdays because a few people had electric irons.
Steel Plate Showing above Water Line
It isn’t known exactly when the first dam was
constructed but early accounts say that Caleb Brown erected the first grist
mill in 1805 at Unadilla Forks. The
picture to the left is a view from Hackley Street looking south towards the
center of town. It is shown here to
illustrate where the grist mill was with respect to other buildings. Since the grist mill was powered by water, it
is likely that the dam was in place in 1805.
There was a pathway under the road that allowed water to power the grist
mill. The first building in view on the
right side of the road is the grist mill.
The next building on the same side is a furniture/cabinet factory and
the large building in the distance is the hotel/store in the center of
town. The saw mill is obscured by the
furniture factory but an expanded picture show logs piled in front of the saw
mill ready for milling. A horse and buggy
can be seen heading over the wooden bridge going north on Hackley Street. When Charles Backus bought the dam in 1902
it was thought to be about 30 years old.
This is in accord with a 7/28/1880 Brookfield Courier article that
states: “The steam engine, new dam, and renewed activity in business have
created a boom in village property.
Several new enterprises are talked of.”
It was the first V-shaped dam and had been built by Oscar Clarke. At some point after Backus purchased the dam
it needed repair and he succeeded by reinforcing with about 30 loads of
stone. I do not know the history of the
dam before about 1870 or how many dams were previously erected at this
site. What I do know, is that the 1870
dam finally gave way in the spring of 1944 and drained the pond. From the newspaper report it was a mess. The mud flats began to smell and wells near
the river dried up. The fire company
became concerned for their water supply and fishing was impacted. The town tried unsuccessfully to fill the
hole with rocks and logs but it didn’t hold.
Finally they hired the Germond Brothers of Clinton to build a new dam at
a cost of $4,850 to the small community.
I remember my grandmother, Eltha Jones, taking me down to the bridge to
see the construction. Quite impressive
to a five year old. The money was raised
through sales, auctions, and donations with the final $500 coming at an Old
Home Day on 8/23/1947. There were open
houses (Ira Roberts, Otto Huddle, Mrs. Homer King, Ted Clarke, and Frank
Gilson), exhibits, cooperage demonstrations, antique auto rides, pony rides,
motor boating, and a ball game. This was
all followed by a country supper at Memorial Hall (First Baptist Church) and a
play directed by Otto Huddle including Mary Rogers, Beatrice Gates, Walter
Jones, Richard Cornell, Irene Baldwin, Elizabeth Davis, Grace Cornell and Ida
Bouck. The day concluded with singing by
the quartet of Ester Jane Davies, Janette Lamb, Eugene Lamb, and Richard
Cornell.
In 1973 the dam began to leak and as a result the
river and mill pond behind it began to dry up.
These two photos were taken by Howard Goff and show how low the water
was before the dam was repaired (photos furnished by Robert Hosley, Howard’s
grandson). An article from the West
Winfield Star (2/27/1975) indicated that federal funds might be available for
repair if the site could be establishment as a recreational area. A committee was formed to look into this
possibility. Committee members were Mrs.
Frank Gilson, Mrs. Russell Brown, Jerry Davis, Walter Harrison, Rev. Charles
Fitch, Robert Buzzell and Mrs. John Walsh.
For some reason,
This photo is of John Walsh on the left and Ray Carparelli
on the right. The boy in the background
is Rob Hosley. Notice the exposed stone
foundations where buildings used to sit over the water during the 1800’s. As I recall the Carparelli’s used to fish for
pickerel in the late fall and very much loved the river.
Before the dam could be repaired, the water level
above the dam was lowered by pumping with an irrigation pump borrowed from Vyron
Chapman.
Once the water was lowered, holes were drilled into
the cement canopy to allow the cement to flow behind the wooden logs supporting
the dam. I believe the man running the
jack hammer is one of the Cooper twins and the man in red is Maurice Mariotti. From the change in clothing observed in the
next photo, this endeavor took more than one day to complete.
This photo
shows cement being poured into the drilled holes. I believe a few of the people in this picture
can be identified. The second person on
the left overlooking the work below and wearing a light colored hat is John
Walsh. The second person to the left of
the chute is Ray Carparelli. There are 3
workers on the dam (lower left side of the photo), two with shovels. The first one is Dale Mariotti who passed
away in 1993 and the second is his father, Maurice; the third person has not be identified. I believe the worker closest to the
"V" in the dam is one of the Cooper twins but I don't know which one,
the fellow leaning on the shovel is unknown and I believe the guy leaning on
his knee is Steve Holmes.
On 8/9/1977 they poured 180 tons of cement into the
dam. This photo was taken as the cement
was being poured (see chute on bridge) and men from the fire company were
directing the cement into a hole they had made in the dam canopy.
.
The picture to the left shows Rob Hosley standing
below the dam with a clock sitting about head high (left side of photo) recording
the time the water again flowed over the dam.
I am told that there were some minor wagers as to the exact time the
water crested the dam. At 3:55 on August
9th water again poured over the dam. The Carparelli Brothers did this in memory
of their father and accepted no money.
The dam is still in place after almost 60 years but it is not in very
good shape.
Buildings Along the Rivers
The east and west branches of the Unadilla River meet
just below the dam in Unadilla Forks.
The East Branch is the larger of the two and is suitable for canoe and
boating. The West Branch has its origin
above Bridgewater about 4 miles away whereas the East Branch originates above
West Winfield about 6 miles upstream.
One is able to navigate almost to West Winfield. The dam is on the East Branch; therefore that
is where most of the commercial buildings that relied on water power were
built. This photo was taken above the dam looking west
and the next photo was taken from nearly the same spot looking north up the
river. The furniture factory can be seen
behind the bridge and the warehouse/store thought to be associated with it was
located over the water on the opposite side of the road. The next photo shows the warehouse in the
foreground and two other buildings along the river. Since these photos were probably taken in the
early 1900s, inspection of the 1903 UF map shows the factory belonging to E. B.
Clarke (Edgar) and the building across the road belonging to F. O. Clarke
(Francis). The grist mill, shown
previously, was owned by W. H. Chase.
The building located furthest north on the east side of Hackley Street was
most likely a furniture store in 1868. The
building in the middle was owned by W. H. Chase and may have been a warehouse
for the grist mill. I’m not sure when
the three buildings on the east side of Hackley Street were constructed but none appear in the 1856
map. An 1868 map of UF shows the saw
mill owned by Amos Fisk, a cabinet and rake factory owned by Jared Clarke in
the same location as the 1903 furniture factory, and the grist mill owned by
Dea
In the 11/05/1997 issue of the West Winfield Star, the
25 years ago section contained a piece recalling the memories of Stanley
Griffith of Ithaca, a former UF resident.
“Edgar Clarke once owned and operated a cabinet shop on Hackley Street
next to the bridge. The shop was powered
by one of three waterwheels in the village, the others were at the Backus saw
mill and at the Chase-Ellsworth feed mill.
Clarke also produced such items as rough boxes for burial and baseball
bats in addition to cabinetry. Griffith
remembered visiting the shop one time as a boy with his father. He was fascinated by the machinery with its
flying belts, the smell of fresh woodwork and the rumble of the waterwheel
beneath the floor. On one occasion,
Edgar presented him with a baseball bat, what a present for a boy.” “In one section of the floor a trap door
opened so one could look down upon a deep eddy of water which had just passed
over the wheel. In the eddy one could
see a number of large fish (suckers) resting calmly near the bottom. It was here, he told my father, that the
depth-bomb was invented. In the early
days of WWI, the German U-boats were sinking Allied ships at a staggering rate
and there appeared nothing could be done to stop the destruction. Using the suckers as target, Edgar would wrap
a small amount of explosives together with what he called a pressure cap, and
then drop it into the water over the fish.
By trial and error he found that the pressure cap could be set to
detonate at a predetermined depth, thereby exploding the charge near the
suckers. Edgar said that he immediately
contacted the US Navy and described the invention and how it could be developed
into a depth bomb in production and it was put into use with fabulous
results. What an interesting historical
landmark the old cabinet shop could have been.”
Although the story may be true, a quick search of the internet for the
inventor of the depth charge did not produce the name Edgar Clarke.
The picture to
the left shows the cabinet factory and what looks like a gate to let water into
the factory. The dam, including the
apron, appears to be all wood. No water
is flowing over the dam in this picture.
Most likely, when the gates were open, the pond would drain and no water
flowed over the dam.
Although I do not know the dates the buildings were
destroyed, other than the saw mill, one can bracket the time from other
pictures. The picture to the left shows
Ray Backus playing in the snow on Hackley Street. This picture was taken in the early 20s and
the building across from the furniture factory is no longer standing. The furniture factory is still standing and
logs can be seen on the south west side of the road ready to be processed in
the saw mill that Ray’s father Charles owned.
The grist mill can also be seen just beyond the furniture factory. Two of the three original buildings on the
east side of Hackley Street can still be seen.
The picture to the left shows the cabinet/furniture factory
ruins in the foreground. From the
previous picture we know the factory was in place in the early 20s and was
destroyed before the first steel bridge was constructed (date unknown). My father told me that they also made caskets
and baseball bats in the furniture factory.
I do not remember any furniture factory ruins while growing up in the
40s. However, I do remember some ruins
from the grist mill.
The picture to the left shows the grist mill after a fire. The following was taken from the May 22, 1940
edition of the Brookfield Courier: Fire
of unknown origin partially destroyed the old feed and grist mill in Unadilla
Forks Monday afternoon at about 3 o’clock.
The fire was discovered by Stanley Myers, who turned in an alarm to the
local fire company. They responded
immediately and soon had two streams of water playing on the flames, which were
pouring from the building. In a short
time the Bridgewater fire company was on the scene and did very efficient work
in helping to save the house of Mrs. Estelle Simons near by. Fortunately the wind was in the direction to
blow the flames across the river and away from the street. The building, which for many years was
operated as a feed and grist mill, has been idle for several years. It is owned by Mrs. George Roberts of Yonkers
who purchased it about two years ago and had planned to raze the building and
erect a home on the site. The loss was
partially covered by insurance.
In the early
1900’s the grist mill had the names Ellsworth, W. H. Chase, and Herbert Rogers
associated with it. Mrs. George Roberts
is the sister of Byron Chapman, Anna’s father.
The saw mill can be seen in the background just beyond the car. From other pictures of the fire, it is
apparent that the first steel bridge was in place at the time of the fire,
therefore construction of the steel bridge must have occurred between 1920 and
1940. The Brookfield Courier
(10/31/1934) reported that construction of the steel bridge linking Madison
with Otsego county was delayed because a mail carrier objected. As I remember, both bridges were essentially
the same design therefore they may have been constructed within a few years of
each other.
This picture to the left is what I refer to as the
first steel bridge and is the bridge that I remember growing up with in the
40s. There are 3 men standing on the
road looking down at the dam and one (maybe my father) near the base of the
dam. I do not know if this picture was
taken before or after the new dam was constructed in 1947. The bridge connecting Madison and Otsego
Counties looked essentially the same as this bridge.
This photo shows the old bridge connecting Madison and
Otsego Counties. The bridge by the dam
looked quite similar and both had wooden decking. Just over the bridge on the left side of the
photo is a house which no longer stands; it was house #28 in the Unadilla Forks Directory.
While on the subject of bridges, it should be
mentioned that two other wooden decked bridges no longer exist: one which crossed the river at Lover's Lane
and the other about 1/2 mile north of Leonardsville on the Skaneateles Turnpike
called Hoxie Bridge.
In September
1976 a car driven by Dave Case of Brookfield overturned as it approached the
bridge going west and skidded on its top ending up in the middle of the
bridge.
This photo sparks my memory about an incident that
happened while hunting with a friend from Binghamton. Fran and I had a history of taking my boat up
the river the day before duck season opened.
We would drop it off at the "Ox-Bow" then walk in from Lovers
Lane on opening day and duck hunt while rowing back to Unadilla Forks. My motor was not running well so I borrowed
my uncle's (Walt Slosek) and Fran and I started our journey. He sat in the
narrow front seat and I ran the motor. I
remember that we had to steer clear of the middle because a metal rod was just
below the surface, and maybe still is even today. Fran let out a yell that I should go one way
or the other but by that time the bow had hit the rod and the boat jerked. Since he was in the narrowest part of the
boat, he lost his balance and the boat started to rock and before we could
react we were both in the water and the boat was upside down with my uncle's
motor under water. We looked at each
other and decided to swim to the east shore rather than hang onto the boat. After pulling ourselves out of the muddy
water we walked to Carlton Wilcox's farm where he was milking at the time. I don't think I ever heard Carlton laugh so
hard as when he laid eyes on us. He was
nice enough to give us a ride back to town where we changed clothes and headed
back to rescue the boat and motor. We
managed to get to the boat and motor but I don't remember what happened after
that. I doubt the ducks got a free pass
the following day.
This picture shows my uncle, Walter Slosek, posing
with his truck in front of what use to be the Plainfield town building. Although the date is not known I would guess
that it was taken in the late 30s. The
place where the building sat is on a lot along the river presently belonging to
Susan Graham. The previous owner of
this property was Carlton (Tubby) Gates.
In the 1860s a man by the name of Daggett ran a tin/copper and hardware
store perhaps in this very building.
Those were the buildings along the East Branch of the
Unadilla that are documented with photos and maps (1868 and 1903). There remains another interesting building
that is mentioned in The History of Otsego County by Hurd on page 293. Here is a short transcription of that
section, “Among those who rendered much valuable service to the pioneers and
exerted himself in no small degree to advance the material interest of the town
was Caleb Brown. He was the pioneer in
building at the Forks and in 1805 erected the first grist-mill in the town at
that place. He soon built an oil-mill
and cloth-factory on the east branch of the Unadilla. He also erected a building for a
woolen-factory on what was called the Island, a short distance south of the
Forks. He was preparing to set up the
machinery in this building, had engaged workmen, and commenced spinning
temporarily in the chamber of his spacious dwelling, when suddenly his death
occurred, and the various enterprises which he founded were abandoned, and the
prosperity of the place for a time considerably checked.” For some time I have struggled with where
this “Island” about ¾ mile south of the Forks was.
It wasn’t until
Dale Gates showed me an old map that his father Arthur had that I began to see
what the Hurd description was talking about.
The Gates map is shown here at the left and shows the boundary between
Madison and Otsego counties. That
boundary being the West Branch of the Unadilla until it meets the East Branch
and then they combine into one river which marks the boundary. If you expand the map by clicking on it, you
will see that the river did indeed form two islands. The first island was slightly south of where
the stream that crosses route 8 and boarders Keith Armstrong's property
intersects the river. The second island
is 3/4 mile south of Unadilla Forks as seen from a recent Google
Map of the area. The red line on the
map measures the 3/4 mile distance from Unadilla Forks. If one were to draw a
straight line from the point where Miner Road intersects Route 8, to the river,
you would see that the "island" was just south of there. The Gates map shows the river going fairly
straight before and after the stream boarding the Armstrong property but that
is not the case today. In that same
area, I have always been fascinated by what appears to be an old riverbank some
distance from the river. The riverbank
seemed out of place so far from the main stream but I now believe that it was
the western bank of the river surrounding the first island. Today the river juts east and the old
riverbank is pasture land.
A photo of a swamp is shown here along with what I
believe to be the outline of the old river bank.
The West Branch of the Unadilla River also has a
history of manufacturing along its banks.
I was very fortunate to acquire a detailed description one such factory
from a former Bassett living now in Florida.
Inspection of the 1868
map of Unadilla Forks shows a
building on the West Branch at the end of Sunset Lane. The building was owned by W. L. Bassett and
is thought to be the original fork and hoe factory. The West Branch was split at that time most
likely to provide water power for the factory.
John Spring, a local blacksmith, and Allen Babcock wrote a short
note in 1937 mentioning this
original factory as well as the Babcock factory located in Leonardsville,
NY. The note says that the factory was
moved to “The Glen” and by clicking on the link here “The Glen” you can read in detail about the factory constructed
in 1850 at the Willow Glen. The Glen
was located on the West Branch behind the Jim Gates Farm on Hackley
Street.
This view is from Hackley Street looking west towards
Route 8. The path in the middle of the
field is where the old road was that connected Hackley Street with Route
8. Dale remembers his father saying that
one of the last uses of this road was for mail delivery.
The property is presently (2011) owned by Jim and
Sandy Gates.
This view is from Route 8 looking east towards Hackley
Street. I believe the old road was in
the area just to the right of the telephone poles.
The road connecting Hackley Street with Route 8 is
shown on maps of that era. The bridge
area can still be seen today but traces of the Glen buildings are hard to
find. The map provided by Dale Gates shows
the Willow Glen buildings on the west side of the stream. The vertical road in the photo is Route 8 and
the horizontal one is the Willow Glen Road leading to the West Branch. The 1937 description by John Spring mentions
that there were 5 houses built at the Glen about the time the shop was built
(1850). There were 3 houses across the
road from the plant. On the plant side
of the street were the homes of Mr. White and George R. Bassett. John also wrote that there was a sizeable
warehouse built near the plant for storage of finished goods. The Bassett write-up noted that the factory
had 3 floors. The first floor contained
the factory, the second was for finishing and shipping and the third floor was
occupied by the Odd Fellow Lodge and used as storage. More will be mention later about the Odd
Fellow organization in Unadilla Forks but it seems strange that the Unadilla
Forks Odd Fellows would use a building that far from town. Perhaps the Odd Fellow organization of that
time encompassed the residents of the near-by town of Bridgewater and Willow
Glen was a convenient mid-point to meet.
In any event, the life of the factory was relatively short in that it
burned in 1870.
During May 2005 I visited the Willow Glen site and
found what appear to be foundation stones.
I also discovered a man-made channel that ran from the bridge upstream
to what either was a diversion or a dam.
This allowed water from the West Branch to power the factory. From H.
Child's Gazetteer and Business Directory for Madison County (1868) on page 106 it lists the factory as a saw
mill, manufactures of and dealers in forks, hoes, garden rakes, cheese boxes,
etc. This photo shows the upper end of
the channel where the water entered the diversion and the lower photo shows the
site of the old bridge connecting Hackley Street with Route 8. The bridge went across the stream where the
tree on the left of the stream now stands.
A few stones are all that remain. The end of the channel was very near the
bridge as was the factory.
The Churches of
Unadilla Forks
A general description of the two churches situated in
Unadilla Forks can be found in the link:
The
History of Otsego County 1740-1878 by D. Hamilton Hurd. Both were
Baptist: one was called the First
Baptist Church and the other the Free Baptist Church. Generally the “church” refers to the group of
people gathering to worship in a particular manner but many think of the church
as a building. The churches were formed
by people from the surrounding region and due to the difficulty in traveling
long distances, buildings were erected in various localities to facilitate
meeting. Thus the church was formed
before the buildings were built. I have
asked myself and others why should there be two Baptist churches in such a
small community. The answer is not
simple but most probably stems from the autonomous nature of Baptist churches
in general. I believe in the First
Baptist Church you could only take communion if you were a member of that
church and there are other
issues involving salvation that I’m not well enough
versed in to discuss.
The pictures to the left show the First Baptist Church
in two time periods. The early upper
photo is of the original church which was erected in 1830. The lower photo was taken just prior to the
church being razed in 1957. The 1957
photo shows a larger church due to an addition on the left side. The addition was added in 1916 and was used
to hold events such as dinners. The two
Baptist churches merged in 1914 and the First Baptist Church became known as
Memorial Hall where village events such as suppers and plays were held. I have a few memories of that church. The first one is of an ice cream social,
perhaps on Memorial Day. As a young boy
I was fascinated with the dry ice that was used to keep the ice cream
cold. The second involves a Christmas
play followed by a visit from Santa.
Santa was played by Dwight Wing.
He hitched up a horse to a sleigh and when he left you could hear the
sleigh bells and when the program was over the kids ran outside and saw sleigh
tracks in the snow. Our presents were
fresh navel oranges. Another memory
involves a group of kids, including myself, climbing up into the steeple at
night with flash lights to catch pigeons.
We tried to make pets out of them but as I recall when we let them go
they kept right on going. I also remember
collecting the lead from the stained glass windows that were broken during
demolition and melting it down to make fishing sinkers. Word of caution: never let water contact molten lead. Memorial Hall is just a memory now and a lone
stone with a marker marks the spot were it once stood.
The
first Free or Free Will Baptist Church building is thought to have been
constructed close to the boundary between Otsego and Herkimer counties on the
east side of the road heading towards Woods Corners. It was not called a church at that point but
was instead called the logg meeting house.
The exact date of construction is not known but it was in use in
1807. It is not clear what happened to
this meeting house but the land was annexed by the town of Winfield in
1816. A new church was constructed in
1832 on the property of Nathaniel Crumb (Eugene Armstrong bought the farm, #8,
circa 1895) on the road leading to Lloydsville (the 1856 map of UF shows the location).
About 1855 that structure was moved to the location of the present Free
Baptist church in the center of town. It
is said that the mover who supervised the move was killed during the move. The picture to the left, taken after the
move, is the only picture that I have seen of the original 1832 church. You can also see a door to the present day
apartment building at the right of the picture. Nancy Melville (church historian) obtained
an original painting (date unknown) of the 1832 church and Al Starkweather was
kind enough to scan it and send me a copy.
The scan is shown as the colored photo to the left.
About
3:00 Tuesday afternoon 8/13/1895 an oil stove ignited the dwelling of William
Dye which was attached to the rear of his store next to the church. Mr. and Mrs. Dye were at a funeral at that
time. The fire spread to the church and
nearly to the adjoining Pitt King residence.
An article of that time stated that “the church was an old building but
had recently been repaired and refitted and was in good condition.” It was valued at $5,000 and insured for
$1,800. Not much was saved from the
church fire except the original bell, two organs, the carpets and some pulpit
chairs.
The
bell was made in England and weighs 900 pounds and hangs in the present day
church. While the church was being
rebuilt, services were held Sunday afternoon in the First Baptist Church and
the young people’s meetings in the hall over Humphrey’s store. Members of the building committee included
Rev. W. C. Byer, D. E. Bass, H. P. Clark, A. W. Brown, J. E. Humphrey, Mrs. W.
C. Byer, Mrs. A. Smith, Mrs. A. W. Brown and Mrs. Clara Worden. The church was rebuilt the next year and the
dedication is well documented in an article that appeared in the Brookfield
Courier on 5/6/1896. The picture to the
left is how the church looked in 1926 on its 30th anniversary. The building in the background (between the
store and church) was used to house chickens in the 50s and owned at that time
by Dwight Wing who sold eggs. I came into
contact with an article that was presented at the 100th anniversary
(1902) of the church’s founding. If you
click on this link you will be taken to the transposed article. Remember the article was written in
1902.
The
photo to the left was taken during a typical baptismal, probably around
1910. I believe the event occurred on
the Madison County side of the river on property now owned by Keith Armstrong
(#43 on the map) several yards below the bridge. Two men can be seen waist deep in water with
others standing on the bank observing while a horse drawn carriage waits at the
top. More recently the Baptists have
baptized in the Unadilla River across from house #51 and there is a baptismal
in the church that is used when the weather is too cold to use the river.
This
is a photo of a Philathia Baptist picnic that was held at the home of John and
Florence Rogers. The house was last owned
by Frank Orcutt and was located south of Campbell Brook on the River Road to
Leonardsville. Philathia is a Greek word
meaning “Lovers of Truth” and the Philathia is a group of women whose platform
is, “Young women at work for young women, all standing by the bible and the
bible school.” As can be seen, it was a
rather large group at the time this photo was taken.
This
photo was taken in 1968 on the lawn of Howard Goff with the river in the
background. These are some of the
Philathia members at that time. I will
identify as many as I can: front row L/R
are
Sherry
Wilcox, Gertrude Gilson, Ann Goff, Charlotte Brown and Beatrice Davies. In the back row L/R are Mildred Pugh,
Elisabeth Evans, Louise Rogers, Unknown, Unknown and Unknown.
The
Forks Stores and Shops
Aside
from the buildings along the river , which were already covered, there were other
businesses in the Forks. One such
business was the store next to the church that burned in 1895. This picture to the left was taken in the
70s and shows the store when it had a sign over the entrance reading Super
J&S Market. The J&S
stood for Jones and Slosek. My father,
Walt Jones, and his brother-in-law, Walt Slosek, were partners and purchased
the store in 1947 from Matthias (Tyce) Myers.
The history of this store is unknown to me but
looking through the deed turned up the following names: William L. Bassett and wife to Charles W.
Rogers, Charles Rogers to Daniel Hardin (1876), Hardin to William G. Dye
(1878/1887), Martha Dye to the Odd Fellows (1909), Odd Fellows to Charles W.
Rogers (1909), Charles Rogers to J. F. Rogers (1924), Merton (Mert) Lamb for
Odd Fellows to George Crommie (1937), George Crommie to Matthias Myers (1941),
and Myers to Jones and Slosek (2/4/1947).
The Odd Fellows had a meeting hall in the upstairs portion of the
store. I remember playing with an old
pump organ in that room and also seeing a large IOOF
(International
Order of Odd Fellows) sign on the rear wall.
It is possible that the Odd Fellows rebuilt the store after the fire and
rented the store and apartments. I
remember pumping Amoco gas as a youngster when it was about $0.28/gallon and
kerosene was about $0.15/gallon. There
were also some apartments on the right side and above the entrance. Today the store is an apartment building.
The
store was a general meeting place as was the post office. Many a fish and hunting story was told by the
large round cheese that was kept to the left side of the meat case as my father
cut meat.
Here
we have three men in some sort of discussion.
They are from L/R Lynn Jones my uncle, Mert Lamb and Bob Davies. Mert, Bob and Herb Evans used to work at
Remington Arms in Ilion and often rode together. Lynn did the cement work for the store
porch. Prior to then, the porch was made
from wood. The Amoco gas pumps can be
seen in the background and there was a kerosene pump located over Lynn's right
shoulder (not seen in the photo).
This
1960 photo shows Lyle Davis in his barber shop which was located on the first
floor of the store building all the way to the right side. The man in the chair has not been identified. Lyle lived in Brookfield and he was the local
barber for many years. Other barbers in
the area were Paul Alger in Leonardsville and Larry Hunter in Bridgewater. West Winfield had a barber but I can't
remember his name.
This
photo is of (left to right) Eleanor Williams, Tyce Myers and Ruth Evans. Eleanor and Ruth worked for Tyce and later
for Jones & Slosek.
This
picture shows the store with a wooden porch and Fred Mumbulo along with Ruth
Evans. Fred had very poor eyesight and
used to ride a bicycle. He was also
responsible for digging graves. Fred
lived in house #28 which no longer stands and loved to fish in the Unadilla
River which ran through his back yard.
The sign above the entrance says Forks Store – Jones and Slosek. A little girl can be seen standing in the
entrance eating an ice cream cone next to the Page seed display. The store sold all kinds of merchandise
including freshly scooped ice cream.
I believe that the store was also a hotel
where one could rent rooms. If you look
closely at the Whitford picture you will see two women looking out the second
story window on the left-front of the store.
Carlton Wilcox remembers a barber in the hotel/store and believes his
name was Deny Moore. In both photos you
will notice that the hotel also functioned as a post office. You can read about Mr. Humphrey’s appointment
to postmaster by Rufus
Daggett by reading the Humphrey
section of the 1903
farm families. About 1930 the post office was moved to the
store next to the church. The reason for
this move is not known. In the 1868 map
of Unadilla Forks the post office is listed as being in the store next to the
church and was run by W. E. Palmer. On
the 1856 map, the post office is shown to be in a store on the northwest corner
of the intersection of Hackley Street and Sunset Lane. When I was a young boy the hotel was still
standing but it was in disrepair and my father had it razed in the early
50s. I do not remember the store
functioning as a store.
The ownership history is not clear to me but
the 1856 map lists the store as the Spicer Temperance Hotel. In May 2006, a poster was auctioned from the
estate of Floyd Armstrong which told of the dissolution of the Humphrey and
Spicer partnership. The poster is dated
12/2/1878 and announces that the store and contents were purchased by a
Mr. Robert H. Davis. A call for all customers currently owing
Humphrey and Spicer to settle their accounts is also included along with a
notice stating that country produce will be accepted as a form of payment. James Armling is listed as the proprietor of
the hotel on the 1868 map and John Humphrey the owner on the 1903 map. I also have some receipts from 1917 with the
name J. E. Humphrey on them and at the same time other receipts with the name
Rowlands & Pugh. This indicates that
Humphrey or Whitford ran the razed store and Rowlands and Pugh the one next to
the church in 1917. I also have a
receipt dated 1932 that shows just the name Irving Pugh as a proprietor. In 2005 I owned the lot where the hotel
stood and researched the abstract to find that Emma A Thornton deeded the
property to John E. Humphrey on 12/26/1896 and Humphrey to my uncle, Charles M.
Jones, on 3/01/1919. Charlie Jones ran
the store in 1920. At this time the
Humphrey’s moved to Plainfield, N.J.
Charles Jones deeded the property to my grandfather, Mel Jones, on
3/07/1925, and Mel to Peter Pankow on 3/26/1929. Ray Backus remembers that Peter Pankow was a
good stone mason and lived over the store.
Apparently Peter defaulted on his taxes and Otsego County sold the store
to John Rogers on 2/18/1944. My father
bought the run-down and non-operating store from Rogers on 3/07/1944. At some point in this ownership lineage a
local painter, Arthur Jones, operated
the store. My father, Walter Jones,
worked for Art Jones at one time. The
sign that hung over the store during the Art Jones period was stored in our
barn for these many years and was recently sold at auction to a local antique
dealer, Ronald Ingber.
I
have included some photos of various object and bills of that time so the
reader can get an idea of who was in business with whom. Names mentioned above include Haydn Adams,
Rowlands & Pugh, Irving Pugh, and of course J. E. Humphrey with the bill
for supplies for the church dated 4/4/1917.
This particular Humphrey bill most likely was for supplies for the First
Baptist Church addition that was added at that time.
Towel
Holder
My
grandfather, Mel Jones, bought our first house in 1917 from Lela Whitford
daughter of John Humphrey and wife of E. C. Whitford. Ernest (Ern) Whitford was an organist,
pianist, and a good singer. He played
the organ in the Free Baptist Church for many years. He had two sons, Myron and Eugene and later
moved to Plainfield, NJ. After Ern
passed away in 1961, Lela moved back to Unadilla Forks where she died in
1964. She was sister to Herb Roger’s
wife, Bessie. Both of the bills are from 1917.
Of
the names mentioned above, I only remember Irving Pugh. He lived in the house (#34) across the road
from us (#21) and was the town clerk in the early 50s. The clerk’s job was then passed to his
neighbor, Mert Lamb. Irving also worked
as a janitor in the West Winfield School in the 50s. It is possible that the same person or
partnership ran both stores at one time.
I believe that Tyce Myers ran both when my father and uncle bought the
store next to the church in 1947.
The
two stores described above were the most prominent and enduring but others were
present in the early days of Unadilla Forks.
The 1868 map of Unadilla Forks mentions other businesses such as H. H.
Babcock, dealer in general Merchandise on River Street (Hackley Street), R.
Daggett, manufacturer of tin and copper ware and dealer in general hardware
located on River Street, Peter Gaughran, shoemaker on Main Street, Wm. E. and
P. M. Palmer, dealers in general merchandise on Main Street and F. W. Rogers,
dealer in general merchandise on Main Street.
Daggett’s
place was located on property now owned by Susan Graham.
The
1868 map shows a business belonging to Brown & Babcock situated on what is
now Sunset Lane. This link to a web site describes the business as a general
store but in the March 2003 edition of a New Hartford Historical Society
Newsletter called the Tally-Ho, there is a section involving the obituary of
Charles H. Philo and I have copied that section here. In the obituary of Charles H. Philo who
was born in 1845 and died in 1910, it is stated that in 1885 he purchased an
interest in the Utica Tool Company located in Washington Mills. (Ed. note: The
mill was located on Oneida Street past the four corners going towards Utica
about across from Glencrest Village. Two mini malls occupy the space today.)
The enterprise was founded in Unadilla Forks in 1840, when Henry H. Babcock
began the manufacturing of hoes by hand on an anvil. Later Charles B. Brown and
others became interested with him, and in 1865 the business was moved to
Washington Mills where the works were enlarged and forks and rakes added to the
production. In 1871 Porter S. Huntley and Mr. Babcock, under the firm name of
Huntley and Babcock, became sole owners and continued the business until 1883,
when the Huntley and Babcock Agricultural Company was incorporated. This firm
continued until 1887 when the name was changed to Lewis and Babcock
Manufacturing Company and in 1892 it was changed to the Utica Tool Company.
Peter Gaughran ran a shoe shop on the northwest corner
of the Hackley Street – Main Street intersection. It isn’t known for sure when the picture to
the left was taken but it was after 1895 because the new church is in the
background. Notice the building on the
northwest corner. This may have been the
shoe shop or what remained of it in the early 1900s. The lumber that is seen piled on Backus’ lawn
is probably from the saw mill. In other
pictures one can see logs on the lawn ready to be cut in the mill. There is an interesting story connected with
the building in question and it will be told when the post office is described
later. W. E. Palmer ran the store next
to the church in 1868 and it also contained the post office. F. W. Rogers ran a general store that was
located about where Ida Bouck lives today (#19).
Henry
Wilcox ran a blacksmith shop in 1868 very close to the mill pond on land now
owned by Louise Isbell (#44). In fact he
and Parley Phillips built her house in 1828.
Henry had a daughter named Flora and a son named Franklyn (Frank) and
most likely other children that I’m not aware of. Flora Wilcox married Henry Dwight Bassett and
Mr. Bassett moved into the Wilcox house when Henry Wilcox died in 1874. John Spring lived with the Bassetts as a
family member. A write-up for Henry
Dwight Bassett can be found in The
Plainfield 1903 Farm Families section.
The picture to the left shows the blacksmith shop with John Spring
standing in the doorway. Carlton Wilcox
remembers that John Spring smoked a pipe and because he couldn’t hold the pipe
very well in his mouth, he wrapped rubber bands around it. The blacksmith shop was still standing when
I grew up in the late 40s and early 50s but was pretty much abandoned at that
time. The picture below shows a bill
from H. D. Bassett to my grandfather, Melvin Jones, dated 2/3/1906 for $2.70
for work done in 1905.
Frank
Wilcox, son of Henry Wilcox, was associated with his father in the manufacture
of wagons and had a store next to his father’s house. The store sold harnesses, whips, and all
sorts of equipment needed for horse drawn vehicles. The store is shown here next to his father’s
residence. In modern day terminology it
was located across from the old Unadilla Forks Post Office as can be seen in
the next photo. The next photo shows the
Bassetts (Agnes, Dwight, Reba, and Flora) between their house (#44, out of
sight to the left) and the store to the right.
The post office
building is in the background across the street.
The
harness store was moved by Charles Backus as part of a deal. Charles would get to build a storage shed for
lumber on Bassett property and the Bassetts would have a view of the
river. The store was moved adjacent to
the blacksmith shop as seen in the picture to the left. This picture was taken on the Bassett lawn
facing north-east; I do not know who the woman and child are.
This
is picture of John Spring the blacksmith who lived with the Bassetts.
The Bassett girls (Agnes and Reba) were apparently quite talented. Agnes played the piano/organ and Reba painted. I have a sketch of the old corner store painted by her in my home. She used to set up an easel and paint the river from her front yard. I have heard that Reba was an acquaintance of the actress Spring Byington. The internet reports, "Her early Broadway work was modest, like her bit role in The Merchant of Venice. For the next 15 years she lived two lives as a busy stage actress behind Manhattan's footlights, and as an adoring mother in a sleepy upstate New York town." Those 15 years were most likely in the 1910 to 1925 period. I have learned from speaking with Leonardsville resident Roberta Wratten that the sleepy town was indeed Leonardsville just 3 miles south of Unadilla Forks.
Frank
Wilcox lived in the house (#26) owned by Lew and Eleanor Davis which is thought
to be the oldest standing house in Unadilla Forks having been built in
1814. He passed away in 1920. The house is shown at the left. This house may have been owned by a Mrs.
Crandall who ran a millinery shop at that location.
The
house on the west side of this house belonged to a Mrs. Brightman who at one
time conducted a girl’s school there.
That house (#27) is presently owned by the Davies family.
The
1868 map shows a cooper shop between the Wadsworth (Lamb) place (#33) and the
Free Baptist parsonage (#32) but that is all I know about it.
This
picture was obtained from the Upper Unadilla Valley Association's web site and shows an auction taking place in a
building that was located between the hotel on the corner and the
Wilcox/Bassett house (#44). The label
says that the building was a blacksmith shop.
The lot is now empty.
Just
across the bridge into Madison County other business flourished at a place
called River Forks. There was a milk
plant, a cheese factory, a railroad station, a feed store, and a coal shed. The Unadilla Valley (UV) railroad connected
the Delaware, Lackawanna & Western (D L&W) in Bridgewater to the
Ontario & Western (O & W) in New Berlin. A picture of the engine and station are shown
to the left. On the other side of the
engine there is a large structure, that is the milk plant.
Bonds
were issued to raise money for the rail road project. By 1892 enough money had been raised to start
the work. Rails were laid to
Leonardsville by 1893 and to West Edmeston and South Edmeston by 1894 and
finally to New Berlin in 1895. Passenger
service was established but the main stay was agriculture products including
milk. Babcock Manufacturing in
Leonardsville also shipped and received many items by rail. There were 4 station agents at River
Forks. George Clarke (son of Oscar F.
Clarke) was the first station agent in 1895.
He had previously worked in the Bridgewater station and learned
telegraphy there. He was promoted in
1908 to the Leonardsville station. Paul
Stillman followed George Clarke and in 1918 Henry Page Clarke became station
agent and also acquired the adjoining coal business from Stillman. In 1931 Herm Matteson became station agent
and also managed the coal business.
Eventually trucks and cars began to take business away from the UVRR
starting in the 20s and finally in September of 1960 the rails were
removed.
One
might wonder why a railroad station very close to the village of Unadilla Forks
was not called the UF RR station. As it
turns out, the name and station were already accounted for. The picture to the left shows the UF RR
station (expanded picture shows the UF sign above the entrance) but it was
located on Hackley Street very close to Route 20. The house still stands today and is owned by
Chris Jones and family; earlier it was listed as Byron Murray’s Hotel. The station provided room and board for travelers. It is believed that there were hard feelings
in UF because this station was called the Unadilla Forks RR Station.
The
Unadilla Forks Dairy Company had a plant on the northeast side of the tracks
which made cheese that was shipped to Utica and beyond via rail. In 1992, Ward Ellsworth described walking
from school in UF to his home on Rout 8 and passing by the cheese factory. Their dinner pails were just right for the
excess cheese curd that was easy to come by.
At
some later time the UF Dairy Company was purchased by the Phenix cheese
company. The Phenix Cheese Company took
over production of Philadelphia Brand cream cheese until it merged with Kraft
in 1928. A resident of the area, Mary
Lamb, believed the plant burned in 1922 or 1923. The UF Dairy Company can be seen sporting
the Phenix label in the picture to the left.
An article in the Brookfield Courier said that the Phenix Co. was ready
to receive milk in April 1903.
This
picture shows some of the workers at the Cheese Factory. They are from left to right: Byron Chapman
(Anna Chapman’s father), Loren Clarke, Wyette Rogers, Lester Adams, and Homer
King. Homer gave my father his Remington
double barrel 10 gauge hammer shotgun (Model 1882) and I still have it. He lived with his wife Nellie on the King
Homestead next to the Free Baptist Church.
This
next picture was obtained from the book “Days along the Buckwheat &
Dandelion” by Fred Pugh published by the Worden Press of Brookfield in
1984. It comes from the collection of
Charles Edwards and shows Dairymen’s League milk plant that burned 06/09/1933. The plant was located on the southwest quadrant
and across from the Watkins feed store also shown on the right. The fire was suspicious because the station
had just undertaken some major renovations that resulted in the closure of
other plants in Bridgewater, Leonardsville, and West Edmeston.
Recently
I was able to obtain photographs from
the collection of Walter Myers by way of his son, Glenn. Ray Backus related the following to me
regarding the milk plant. The milk would
come in by horse drawn wagons that would drive onto a ramp located between the
main building and the pillars supporting the roof as seen in the lower
picture. The cans were hoisted to an
operator at the first door who would empty the cans into a vat, weigh, and take
a sample to determine the fat content.
The cans were rinsed and steam cleaned and returned to the farmer at the
next door.
The
plant consisted of 3 structures: the
main plant, a power house with a tall steel chimney, and a water tower. The milk was stored in the main plant until
ready to be placed in a railroad tank located in a freight car with a sliding
door.
The
power plant provided steam used in purification and power to run the water
pump. This steam was also used to run
the refrigeration unit that made large blocks of ice that were necessary to
keep the milk cold. The water tower was
constructed with staves and steel hoops.
Water from the well was prized for its’ purity and was often sent home
in milk cans to be used by the farmers.
Even the Baptist Church took some of this water to use during baptism in
the cooler months when the river was unavailable. In the 3 pictures to the left, the railroad
tracks are on the opposite side of the buildings.
A large cement block is all that remains today
of the Dairymen’s League site. The block
probably was associated with the water tower.
An article that appeared in the “Pendragon” (a newsletter of the
Unadilla Valley Railway Society & Museum) states that Leonardsville Fire
Company had enough hose to reach the river and was credited with saving the J.
H. Watkins Feed Store and the Herm Matteson coal shed, both shown in the photo
obtained from the Charles Edwards collection.
The
two buildings shown here are all that remain of the structures that once
populated River Forks. The upper one is
the old depot which now is used as a storage shed on the property owned by
Edward Slosek. This is the same depot seen
in an earlier photo. The building below
is the old J. H. Watkins feed store, constructed about 1919, and has not been
used as such for about 50 years. I do
remember as a youngster trekking from home with a metal-wheeled wheelbarrow to
the feed store to buy feed for chickens that we kept for eggs. According to Mary Lamb, the store was
managed at various times by George Hughes, Charles Hoxie, and Irving Pugh.
They
Want a Hotel
In
1874, J. F. Babcock published a “poem” describing a hotel in River Forks. Although I don’t know where this hotel was
located it seems possible that it was on the same side of the road as the milk
plant which may have used the “Old Well” referred to in the poem. In 1874 no railroad depot existed at that
location
Well,
I suppose that you’ve heard the gossip
About
the River Forks hotel,
Which
stands upon the corner
Just
east of the “Old Well!”
Its
doors are locked and blinds closed,
It
looks sad and dejected;
If
it could speak what tales ‘twould tell,
And
wish ‘twas not erected.
The
“Raines law” legislation
Caused
a feeling of negation,
And
a license was a risky thing to buy.
To
keep hotel without it and be subject to the law
Would
by many be considered quite a flaw.
Now
the house lies in the passive tense,
Although
the vote was for license,
And
a big majority to “back it,”
But
a certain class of “Motors,”
With
whom there were some voters,
Said
they wouldn’t stand the “racket.”
They
measured up the distance
And
with the law’s assistance,
Decreed
that no license should be sold.
Now
when the folks get so very dry
That
it seems as though they’d fly,
It’s
very hard to get up a resistance.
We
are told the jugs now flitter,
For
they say they have the “Critter”
Handy
by to quench a certain “thirst.”
Now
for fear they may suffer
And
some bad things think or mutter
They’re
afraid they will not be “class first.”
Now
let us all be quiet
And
keep right on our diet,
The
result no one can now foretell,
We
may wake some sunny morning,
And
have a licensed, good, first-class hotel.
This
organization played an important part of early Unadilla Forks. We know that there was an Odd Fellow meeting place at Willow Glen in the 1850-1870 time
period. The obituary of Eugene Armstrong
states among other things that he was a member of the Mount Markham Lodge of
Odd Fellows ever since its organization in 1900. I believe the lodge number was 813. There is some thought that the Odd Fellows
rebuilt the Dye store when it burned in 1895 and that is how they came to have
a meeting place upstairs. In any event
the organization was very popular as evidenced by the number of members
involved. The Odd Fellow photo here was
taken in 1913 in Leonardsville. Names
connected with the photo from front left front are: David Matteson (Missing from Picture), Melvin
Jones (my grandfather), Albert Bassett, Arthur Hoxie, George Huggins, Lynn
Chase, William Adams, William Chase, John Davis, John Jones, Henry Page Clarke,
Wyette Wing, George Bailey, and Charles Rogers.
In
the back row from left to right we have:
George Clark, John Hoxie, Lou Holdridge, T. Pitt King, Tom Hoxie, Herman
Matteson, H. B. DeLancy, Byron Chapman, Norman Chapman, Fred Davis, Herbert
Rogers, Homer Clark, Chester Wing, Charles Clark, Clark Brown, Ray Greenleaf,
W. Coon, Lowell Crandall, Lester Adams, Ward Vincent, Irving Pugh and S. Eugene
Armstrong. Click on the picture
to enlarge. The Odd Fellow Organization
no longer exists in Unadilla Forks and the last remaining member was folded
into the lodge in New Berlin.
This
photo shows several members and I will only identify those I feel comfortable
recognizing, front row: second from left
is Wanda Jones, Mary Buzzell, and Liz Cooper.
Back row: second from the left is Irene Washburn. If some one knows the identity of the others
please contact me at this e-mail
address and I will add their names to the photo.
My
grandfather, Mel Jones, bought the house that is shown at the beginning of this
web site in 1917 and it burned in March of 1918 along with 3 other homes. The rubble in the photo belonged to Mel
Jones, Lew Holdridge, Dr. Henn and the
last home to Mrs. E. Stillman in that order.
The picture to the left was taken from atop the hotel building and the
First Baptist Church can be seen in the background. The first barn to the left belonged to Mel
Jones and is still standing today. Ida
Bouck lived (#19) where Dr. Hen’s house used to stand; the other two lots are
empty. The UF fire company at that time
had a soda – acid tanker that was no match for the blaze. Ida’s house was built by the Harris family
for $2,500. Charlie Backus was the
builder and Ray Backus designed it. The
Harris family and the tragic death of their twin sons Robert and Raymond, will
be discussed later.
The
following was taken from the Brookfield Courier dated 4/3/1918. The fire was on 3/29/1918.
Unadilla
Forks sustained a serious loss by fire Friday morning and four prominent
families were rendered homeless. Four
houses were destroyed, the Baptist Church was scorched and three other buildings
were damaged, while George Holdridge, a member of the volunteer department, was
severely burned about the face and hands.
The
fire started in the rear of the home of Dr. Louis D. Henn, located on Main
Street. Mrs. Babcock, who lives with her
brother, Louis Holdridge, and their mother in the house adjoining, discovered
the blaze. Mrs. Holdridge is an invalid
and her daughter was caring for her shortly after midnight, when she noticed
the fire. Dr. Henn and his family were
soundly sleeping and Mrs. Babcock’s cries aroused them and also caused the
alarm to be sounded for the volunteer firemen.
The
village has a chemical engine and it was promptly manned by the members of the
department, while a constantly increasing crowd of neighbors aided as best they
could. But the fire had too great a
start to be combated successfully by the meager apparatus and the house was
soon in ashes.
Dr.
Henn’s family succeeded in getting out safely, but nothing else was rescued
from the house.
The
blaze sprang to the adjoining home of Mr. Holdridge and then reached to the
other side of the Henn residence, to the home of Mrs. Elizabeth Stillman. The firemen had more than they could take
care of and both the Holdridge and Stillman houses were soon burned to the
cellar walls. Then the blaze struck the
home of Melvin Jones and this was totally destroyed. Mr. Jones’ furniture was removed by willing
hands and the contents of the Holdridge and Stillman houses were likewise
saved.
There
was not much wind, but the sparks struck across Main Street and ignited the
homes of Charles Rogers and Irving Pugh, and the Baptist parsonage was also set
afire. Three times the weary but willing
fighters extinguished blazes on these homes.
The breeze that sent the sparks across the street saved the four barns
in the rear of the residences destroyed.
Dr.
Henn had just received seven tons of coal and this early got a fine start and
during most of the day was burning.
Neighbors
have cared for the homeless and extended every kindness, but the loss is most
discouraging. Some, if not all, of the
houses will be rebuilt.
The
fire company was organized in 1913 when the bylaws were adopted 10/30/1913 by
E. C. Whitford and Wyette A. Wing. The
company was incorporated on 3/10/1915.
Charter members were: S. Eugene
Armstrong, Henry P. Clarke, Louis D. Henn, Wyette A. Wing, Wm. R. Rowlands, W.
H. Adams, W. Lewis Holdridge, Emmet L. Williams, Byron H. Chapman, Herman M.
Matteson, Clayton Evans, Ernest C. Whitford, John Spring, Horace B. Firman ,
Irving G. Pugh, Kendrick J. Wing, Paul R. Stillman, Haydn P. Adams, Homer C.
King, Charles W. Rogers, Charles Backus, Emory S. Alger, Herbert C. Rogers and
Charles C. Penny. Directors were: Ern Whitford, Herb Rogers, Paul Stillman,
Charles Backus, Henry Clarke and Kendrick Wing.
In
1934 the officers were: Past President –
I. G. Pugh; President Elect - Russell Cornell; Vice President – John Davies;
Secretary and Treasurer – Herm Matteson; Chief – Pete Kerwin, and Assistant
Chief – Chet Clark.
In
1942 the fire company petitioned the War Production Board for a siren that
would give a warning of fire to the firemen and also to be used in air raid
warnings. The council rejected their
petition and told them to use air horns instead. Somehow in 1943 they managed to buy a siren
for $395 and were going to install it on Rogers’ store but by the time it was
installed Myers owned the store. The
fire company apparently did have a siren before this new one but it didn’t work
well. I believe the previous siren was
installed on the small fire house shown later. The company also took out a
$1,000 loan from Howard B. Rogers in 1939 to buy a Brockway chassis and pump
plus fire hose.
This
photo was taken in the old firehouse probably around 1940. The men are positioned on and in front of the
Brockway pumper. In the first row from
left to right we have: Rev. Kenneth Bliss, Chief Walter Jones, Robert Davies,
Herman Matteson, Peter Kerwin, Paul Whitacre, and Henry Whaley. Second row: Andrew Short, Chester Clark,
Tyler Lamb, Merton Lamb, Gordon Cooper, Ernest Rogers, George Williams, Leslie
Pugh and Russell Cornell. Third
row: Hugh Roberts, Herbert Evans, Hugh
Roberts, Alfred Williams and an unknown.
The photo can be expanded by clicking on it.
The
left photo was taken after the end of WWll and shows the members of the fire
company who served in the war and returned home safely, they are from left to
right (front row): Ted Neiger, Dick Williams, Bob Hughes, Walt Slosek and
Arnold Baldwin. Back row: Frank Kerwin,
unknown, unknown, Hank Whaley and Andy Short.
Arnold Baldwin was the last known survivor in this picture and passed
away June 29, 2008.
This
photo was probably taken at the Claridon Hotel (corner of Hackley Street and
Route 20) at about the same time and appears to honor the two members who died
in the war, John D. Williams and Elmer Wheeler.
Both photos can be enlarged by clicking on them
In
1955, when the new fire house (#14) was dedicated, this
picture
of the honorary members was taken. From
left to
right
they are: Haydn Adams, Herbert Rogers,
Charles
Backus,
Harold Gates, Herm Matteson, and George Hibbard. I remember Herm Matteson as having only one
hand.
A
picture of the old fire house is shown here.
This
house was located just southwest of the triangle. The picture was most likely taken in the late
30s or early 40s. A fire siren can be
seen atop the building.
This
picture shows the first pumper that the fire company purchased. I’m not sure if it was purchased new but on
the Certificate of War Necessity the Brockway is listed as being built in 1930
and the fire company also had a 1935 Chevy truck of some kind in 1942. I remember sitting in the Brockway’s driver
seat in the old fire house when my father, then the chief, janitored the fire
house. It must have been a cold ride in
the winter because there was only a windshield to protect the driver. I understand that this truck now resides with
the Garrettsville fire department and is on display. The First Baptist Church is in the
background.
1960
Composite of UF Fire Company Members
The
composite shown here was taken in 1960 and shows several members of the UF Fire
Company. Starting from top left: Carlton Saunders – Treasurer, Herb Evans –
President, Morris Mariotti –Assistant Chief, Jim Kerwin – Chief, Walt Jones –
Captain, Robert Lamb – Lieutenant, Byron Holmes – Secretary, Lew Davis, Ken
Baldwin, Mert Lamb, Carlton (Tubby) Gates, Austin Bouck, Pete Kujawski, Ed (?)
Banas, Henry Roberts, Wendell Saunders, Robert Davies, John Massey, Jerry
Jones, Gordon Cooper, Swell Morgan, Fred Gigliotti, Pete Kerwin, Carl Green,
Steve Holmes, Lynn Jones, Howard Barclay, Harold Wing, Walt Slosek, Ted Clarke,
Russ Irons, Richard Powers, Les Pugh, Ernie Rogers, and Minard Ward. To see an expanded picture, click on the
composite.
For
many years the fire company held field days to raise money. Neighboring towns would do likewise and
traditionally a parade was in order to jump start the event. The present firemen's field had not been
built in the 60s so the event was held on the vacant lot behind Austin Bouck's
barn. There were rides for the kids and
nightly entertainment plus lots of food beverages. A highlight was the chicken barbeque.
This
photo was probably taken in the 60s.
Here
we have the keepers of the food and beverages.
From L/R is Wendell Saunders, Robert Lamb and Maurice Mariotti. Photo was taken in 1968.
The
Ladies Auxiliary was an organization that supported the firemen. I believe this photo was taken in the 60s in
the present day firehouse. From L/R we
have: Wanda Jones, Patricia Lamb, Amelia
Williams ?,
Gertrude
Gilson, Unknown, Unknown, Ida Bouck, Unknown and Evelyn Mariotti.
The
Unadilla Forks Academy
The
building (#11) was constructed in 1902 by John and Will Adams (#3) and replaced
an earlier building that was located slightly north of the present
building. The original school house was
moved across the road to the Phoebe Griffiths farm and I don’t know what became
of it. Grades 1-9 were taught until 1909
when a second year of high school was added.
A third year was added in 1914 and in 1925 high school courses were
discontinued and in 1931 the school became part of the West Winfield School
system.
A
1905 Academy publication states, “More important even than the physical is
moral health. Unadilla Forks boasts that neither the deadly saloon nor hotel
bar is found within her borders. Here is
the ideal spot for acquiring an education.”
At that time tuition was $4.00 for the Academic department, $3.00 for
Intermediate, and $2.50 for Primary. The
preliminary subjects and a 24 count Regents’ certificate were required for
graduation. All who fall below the
minimum standing of 75 percent were required to take the next lower grade work
at the discretion of the Principal, with the approval of the Board of
Education. In 1905 the Board of
Education consisted of: J. Humphrey,
John Adams, E. Colburn, Dr. Chesebro and Eugene Armstrong. School Officers at that time were: Herm Matteson (Secretary), Dr. Chesebro
(Treasurer), J. Babcock (Collector), W, Cummings (Librarian) and L. Clark
(Attendance Office).
The
building was later used as a meeting place for the Odd Fellows and Rebekahs but
has since been put on the historical register.
I have attended many dinners in that building that were sponsored by
local organizations.
The
Post Office
The
following article was written by Gert Gilson and transcribed from the West
Winfield Star in October, 1967.
On October 18, 1967 Unadilla Forks received word that
as of November first the post office would be closed. We were shocked but we
did not go down without fighting - wires were sent, phone calls made, letters
written and petitions signed. Courteous replies were received in practically
every case; in fact we could make a scrap, book with letters, from the Senate,
House of Representatives, and even the White House. The Post Office Dept.
informed us that they could not afford to keep the office in Unadilla Forks
open, gave us figures and told us that we were only two and one-half miles from
Leonardsville (which is NOT true). We would regret losing our office under any
circumstances because we dislike losing our identity, we object to rows of
mail boxes and to change of addresses on stationery, magazines and all other
correspondence is not fun. Of course we feel there are other smaller offices
still open but over and above all if there were a universal ruling we would
still think we should have more than a scant two weeks’ notice. This is not a
personal attack on anyone but to explain why we were not pleased and that we
did try to prevent it.
Yes; we have no post office, we have no
post office today, in fact an obituary of the Forks was written giving names
and dates of all the things, as a community have lost in the last twenty years
but this being true, we need not die. We have lost our address but we can still
make the Forks better if not bigger. As Phoenix rose from the ashes we can make
an identity we are proud of. All we have to do is work toward that end,
forgetting what we have lost and thinking what we can gain. We have a beautiful
background and we can make it more so. We have nice people and we can grow
nicer if we all get to know each other better. How? Well, I don’t see some of my neighbors as
often as I should and some of my newer ones I scarcely know. Perhaps they would
like to help make our community a better one if they knew we were trying. Let’s
all get better acquainted and see what we would like. Of course we will not
all agree on what we think should be done (‘taint human)’ but at least we can
make a start. We have that natural
beauty, let’s make the most of it. How about having Arbor Day again? Remember?
Perhaps we need not plant a lot of trees but there are some that need trimming
or cutting down. In Ireland there is a small town which is called Tidy Town
and it is just that and they are proud of it. Maybe we could try harder to keep
our community the cleanest if not the largest one. We might put some flowers
on the triangle and take care of them.
Of course there are larger projects like making a small library, perhaps
in the old post office, and trying to have the Bookmobile come here,
clearing the river of the excess cat tails and even trying for a small park
which could grow in many ways. Oh yes, we have a bus load of children of whom
we are proud, maybe we could at least think about a possible local school, K
through 4 or 6. Dreams? Probably, but we can try. How about an Arbor Day this
spring to clear away some of the winter’s mess? And last but not least, we can
try to get some nice green signs on Routes 20, 8 and 51, so that that everyone
will know that Unadilla Forks
is still here and very
much alive.
The sign is all that remains of the old post office
which was razed in 1970.
Holding the sign are (L/R): Janet Laukaitis, myself, and Wanda Jones my
mother. The zip code was 13474
As mentioned earlier, there is a little story
connected with the post office building seen in the above pictures. Ray Backus said that his father told him that
the post office building was moved from his lawn to the position that it held
for years. That is the building that I
believe was once the shoe shop on the corner. Also, the picture above shows it really being composed to two
buildings. Ray said that his father
wanted to remodel/rebuild some of his house and removed the kitchen section and
attached it to the shoe shop building.
You will also notice that the peak of the post office has what appears
to be a cross. That was put there as an
antenna wire for Charles Backus’ radio after he got out of the hospital for a
gall bladder operation in 1924.
In the photo, Allen and Grace Washburn can be seen dismantling the
old post office.
The
Artist Colony
The post card shown here is a very popular item on e-bay. About 1898, the artist Frank T. Hutchins (1869-1937) came to Unadilla Forks from New York City and founded a summer art colony of landscape painters. The house he built (#42) is situated on the bank of the Unadilla River and was named Myrtle Bank Studio most likely because of the myrtle growing along the bank. An April 1902 Brookfield Courier article says that the Adams brothers built the home. The home is still there today and was also owned by a local artist, Art Jones. The Hutchins school often attracted 30 or more pupils and a 1901 newspaper article stated that the “Dilly-Dally